Last week we were on the bus on the way home when Graham, the bus driver, called out to us. “Sign says the bridge is closed. Should we get closer and see?”
There were seven or eight Martinborough commuters in the back of the bus. (Although I admit referring to that little beige shuttle van as a ‘bus’ is a bit generous. You may as well refer to our tiny Nissan Pulsar as an off-road utility vehicle.)
Everyone nodded to Graham or called out a hearty “yes,” and we drove on toward the possibly washed out bridge.
Rick, who was sitting next to me, reached over and squeezed my knee.
The residents of Martinborough are used to the Ruamahanga River flooding. It happens at least once a year. When the river is very high, the aging Waihenga Bridge is closed for safety. The piles supporting the bridge are shallow and risk collapsing under the force of raging waters.
If the flood’s not too bad, the Waihenga Bridge stays open, but State Highway 53 sometimes becomes submerged at a place in the road called Jenkins Dip. If that happens, there’s a little one lane emergency bridge you can drive over.
There’s never a dull moment around here, at least not when the spring rains come.
Fellow commuters
As we drove forward, some passengers craned their necks to see what was up ahead.
Like Rick and me, most of the people on that bus live in Martinborough and work in Wellington. Over time, we have learned small details about each other. This one owns an olive grove. That one owns a vineyard. Another one lives out past Hinakura, toward the coast.
The camaraderie we share makes it feel more like a school bus than public transport. Although I don’t know these people well, I have a real fondness for the group, for the way we happily take up this commute together. We are people with one foot in the city, and one foot in paradise. (Although even in paradise, rivers flood.)
The total commute is a 55 minute train ride from Wellington to Featherston, and then this 20 minute bus ride from Featherston to Martinborough. Trains don’t go to little, out-of-the-way Martinborough.
The bus pulled up to the ‘T’ in the road that has a panoramic view out over Martinborough’s hill-rimmed basin, and Graham chuckled.
“You think he’ll let us past?”
There was a large truck blocking the road down to the village, and a red sign with ‘Road ahead closed’ written across it.
“Tell him we live just down the road!” somebody shouted from the back of the bus, laughing.
Graham rolled down his window. A man in a bright yellow safety vest stood nearby.
“Will she open up soon?” Graham said, nodding in the direction of the bridge.
“Well, if you want to wait,” the man said. “The river’s supposed to peak around nine tonight.”
It was not quite six o’clock then. Only out in the country would waiting in a bus for over three hours while the river dropped be seen as a viable option.
“Hmm,” Graham said, as though he were considering it. “Need to get these people home. Thanks, mate.” Then he turned the bus in the opposite direction.
Although Martinborough was just 5 minutes down the road, the river was in the way and we now had an hour’s drive ahead of us. We were going further north, out towards Carterton, where the land is a bit higher. You can usually head back into Martinborough on dry land.
“Make yourselves comfortable, people,” Graham said. There were calls on cell phones to tell loved ones we’d be late.
Martinborough swamped
When the rains are really bad, Martinborough can virtually become an island. Even the back way floods.
Toward the end of July, there was such a bad rainstorm that on Friday morning the bridge out of town was out, the mountain road over the Rimutakas was closed, and the trains were down because a train had actually been derailed.
Needless to say, I didn’t make it to work that day.
The train derailment happened when a wall of mud and rock had fallen down the night before, blocking the exit to one of the tunnels through the Rimutaka range. Fortunately for me, it happened after the train I was on made it through.
But the train behind me hit that wall of mud so hard that passengers were jolted and drink bottles flew onto the floor. Luckily nobody was hurt, but 300 people were stuck inside that dark, claustrophobic tunnel for hours. Eventually the carriages were pulled out the back way and the people carted home by bus.
It took all weekend for the KiwiRail to get the locomotive unstuck and back on the tracks. They basically had to build a road in order to get cranes to it, since it was in such a difficult place in the mountains.
Like I said, never a dull moment around here.
The long way home
As Graham drove the bus, I looked out the window at the pastures and hills rolling by. I turned around and chatted with our neighbor Jim, who was sitting behind us. Rick and I talked about the gardening work we wanted to do that weekend. There are worse ways to pass the time.
People on this bus never ask each other if we think the commute is worth it. We all know it is – in spite of the spring rains, the road closures, the occasionally derailed train.
This gives you some indication of how great it is to live out here. It would have to be pretty incredible to make up for all that.
When the bus finally pulled into Martinborough, everyone was relieved.
Rick and I got out at the little greystone church, where we park our car in the mornings.
“Thanks, Graham,” I said as I stepped down off the bus behind Rick. I meant it. I appreciate him getting me home safely.
“See you tomorrow, mate,” he said. The bus door closed behind us, and Graham drove away.
How about you? What’s your commute like? Any flooding rivers and derailed trains?
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Read my other posts about the commute.















Wow, my commute is from bedroom to kitchen coffee pot. ;) Not very exciting at all, although I sometimes have to navigate a 3 year old boy learning to pee standing up, and a 3 year old girl trying to convince me that she has somehow become a puppy dog overnight. That hardly stacks up against derailed trains, though.
Sis used to drive 2 hours to and 2 hours from work each day, but this year she has traded it in for less pay but a 2.4 mile commute, again shy on excitement. It’s nice having her home during daylight hours. ;)
You’ve got a nice commute! If you train the kids right, soon they’ll be bringing the coffee to you in bed. That would shorten your commute considerably…
I don’t think I could drive for 2 hours one way, but you never know. Our commute is do-able for me only because we can sit on a comfortable train (and then bus) and let somebody else drive.
we only go to town once every 4 to 6 weeks..its a 140k round trip(which isn’t so bad ..except we have mass groceries and feed for the animals packed around our legs on our laps etc…next time i go to town i’ll take some piccies to share for show & tell LOL ..these country folks are whole different kettle of fish hey!!
Yes, pics please! I imagine with the feed around your legs it would be a bit Beverly Hillbillies. Great.
I have an hour drive each direction, four days a week. And yes, the bridge does flood out rather dramatically once or twice each winter.
Then there’s the snow problem. Swamplanders CANNOT DRIVE DECENTLY IN SNOW. I learned to snow-drive in Alaska, so I’m good but those other idiots are dangerous, and it’s better to stay home.
I’m lucky to have a new boss this year who is a weather-wimp (she’s from Florida), so I don’t expect she’ll argue with me when I call in “stranded in paradise.”
As for driving 2 hours each day (because public transport is ridiculous here): audio books! Two hours in the truck means two hours of reading, which is not a bad thing for a librarian. >g<
“Stranded in paradise” is it exactly! And yes, I didn’t think of audio books. Also, there are great podcast stories at ‘The Moth’ which I highly recommend – http://www.themoth.org/podcast
I ride the bus to and from work each day, about a 30 minute trip (though it would take 5 minutes without all the stops). No bridges flooding, though the drawbridge we pass over is sometimes open, which can make us up to 30 minutes late, just so that rich folks can get their giant boats out to sea while the rest of us are trying to get to work. I’ve been given the phone number of complete strangers twice my age. Seen crazy people singing rap music and smoking. Seen parents letting small children guzzle sodas. Even encountered people who like to dance in the aisles. It’s rarely a dull moment!
I used to ride the bus from suburban Detroit into the city, and the characters I saw on that bus could have filled an entire novel. There’s definitely something ’special’ about the bus!
The good news is that that bridge is to be replaced.
It is also a deathtrap when you meet a lage John Deere coming the other way!
Excellent news!
When we thought about moving here – we all asked Hubby if he was sure he was happy with the commute (90 mins on the train from Carterton, 30 mins either side to get to the train from our house and then the office at the other end.
He said it was, and 4 years later still agrees.
Yes, we get cut off occasionally, and yes the train occasionally breaks down – but to wake up on days like today with views over the valley, and the sun streaming in over the acres of land with nothing on it except sheep and cows? Well worth it.
And at least with this commute you get stunning views to look at. I took the train to welly myself the other morning – amazing views of Lake Wairarapa – whic we wouldnt normally get to see :)
Life is good here :)
Amen to that, Avalon!
Wow, some pretty amazing and lengthy commutes from folk – but sounds like it is well worth it for Wairarapa dwellers. I just have the school run to contend with – which is walkable on a good day (when a southerly isn’t blowing up the valley from the Cook Strait).