Moon over Martinborough

Murdoch James - Chardonnay vines

We were off to enjoy the ‘Grape to Glass’ tour at Murdoch James.

Leelee was in the front seat next to the Wolf as their big black pick-up truck turned off Dry River Road at the Murdoch James sign. New olive growers like ourselves, Leelee and the Wolf are the good friends who helped me create our olive oil labels.

As we began the long meandering approach down the drive to the vineyard, we passed open fields and poplar trees with golden leaves. A small bridge took us over a bright and sparkling stream.

We all had a pleasant, comfortable feeling that we were in for something special.

Greetings

In casual New Zealand fashion, Pepper the elderly Airedale Terrier was lying in front of the threshold as we approached the main door.

“Hello,” Roger said, laughing at Pepper. “Come in.”  Roger is the Director of Murdoch James and the man we came to see.

Obviously Pepper was a keen watchdog ready to spring to the alert if needed. She lifted her head lazily, blinked at us, and went back to her nap. We stepped over her.

Inside there was a fire going, and introductions went around. We met Roger’s wife Jill and a couple from Auckland who would be joining us on the tour.

Jill made sure we all had glasses as Roger put three bottles of white wine in a charming wicker basket. Then we wandered out toward the vines.

In the vineyard

Cool fall air surrounded us, and yellows and golds were everywhere. The rows of vines made vertical lines towards a distant, vine-striped hill.

As we strolled along Roger told wonderful stories about the vineyard – about how much work and investment they had to do when they bought the place so many years ago, about the soil, and about the way the frost rolls off their hills.

We stopped in front of some Chardonnay vines and Roger poured us each a taste of Chardonnay as we looked at the vines. The fall harvest was finished, so the vines had no grapes.

“These vines are 25 years old,” Roger said. “They’ve served us well.” He waved his hand. “Next week we’re cutting them out.”

Leelee gasped. “Why?” she said.

Winery dogs Rocco and Wintson Churchill with the Chardonnay vines to be cut out

“They have leafroll virus. It slowly kills the vine.” Roger looked out at vines. “There is no treatment, I’m afraid.”

He explained that the virus was spread through pruning and mealybugs. “We have to get them out before it spreads to the other vines.”

“That’s a shame,” the Wolf said.

“When we finish taking these out, we’ll leave the ground to rest for 2 or 3 years,” Roger explained. “Then we’ll replant. In the meantime we’ve still got 50 acres of healthy, productive vines. ” He smiled. “Just a minor setback.”

The strength and vitality of people who rely on agriculture for a living always astounds me.

Further along we were introduced to rows of hearty Pinot Gris vines and sipped their wine, which had hints of sweet peach and pear. Then we tasted the lime flavors of the Sauvignon Blanc. Along the way we saw ‘second set’ Pinot Noir grapes that had ripened after the harvest, and we each tasted a sweet, dark grape.

When we finished tasting the white wines, we walked back to the winery to see the high-ceilinged processing room.

Inside the winery

The walls of the winery were lined with big vats of wine. Old stainless steel vats were working side by side with new, energy efficient, plastic fermenters.

'Moby Dick' - the Murdoch James wine press

Dominating the center of the room was a massive white machine with a long cylinder running down its spine. It was like having a giant, white whale plonked down in front of you.

Everyone was focused on this white behemoth. One man was spraying it with a hose and another was checking some sort of valve. It seemed to me that this machine was the heart and soul of the place.

Back in 1986, when Roger and Jill bought the rundown winery this mechanical beast lay neglected in the corner. It’s an old wine press dating from around 1960. Rather than selling it for scrap, Roger and Jill had it carefully refurbished. Now all their wine passes through this fantastic contraption.

Inside the machine, there is a long balloon. Winery staff load the machine up with de-stemmed grapes fresh from the fields and then the balloon slowly inflates, gently crushing the grapes against the inside of the cylinder. The slow movement of the balloon means that the grape seeds won’t break, which would cause a bitter taste in the wine.

“It’s a beauty,” Roger said, touching the side of the machine.

Roger Fraser and fermenting wine

Staff switched on this old ‘Moby Dick’ and a loud whir came from its belly. Grape juice started trickling out from its spine into a long, narrow trough below.

We watched the juice flow so intently that it seemed we were mesmerised.

Eventually we stepped over to a corner of the room while the press did its work, and we stood talking among the two-story tall stainless steel vats and plastic fermenters.

After lifting the lid to one of the fermenters to show us the wine inside, Roger grabbed a basket of red wines, and we went to my favorite room of the day.

The wine cellar

We all stepped single file down the stairs into the cellar. As I moved down the steps I felt the transition into new kind of space. The noise Moby Dick was making above us faded. The air became cool and infused with a rich, fertile, earthy smell. Hints of spice and fruit lingered around my head.

The light was low, and as my eyes adjusted I saw that the walls were lined with pale brown barrels. Dark wrought iron gates opened like wings under rough archways.

The wine cellar

Roger poured us a taste of the 2008 Pinot Noir and we drank happily as he told us stories about the barrels, their makers, and the forests in France where they come from.

The last wine we tasted that day was my favorite. It was the 2008 Saleyards Syrah, and it had an amazing licorice bouquet with a background of nutmeg. It was fantastic.

When it came time to leave the cellar, I didn’t want to go. But the tour was over, and together we left the peace and silence of that place.

We thanked Roger and Jill and stepped over Pepper as we said goodbye.

Inside my head I made a mental note while walking back to the Wolf’s truck. The next time my mom and step-dad visit New Zealand, I need to bring them here. They’d love this place.

Have you ever been in a dark and lovely wine cellar?

For details on the ‘Grape to Glass’ tour, visit the Murdoch James Estate website.

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