What the river taught me

July 11, 2009

There is a river at the bottom of our property. To get there you step out the front door, then walk along the rosemary hedge, across the top paddock and into the olive grove, through the bottom paddock and a dense cluster of trees, then finally down to the water’s edge.

The river in summer

The river in summer

The miracle is that you can do all of this without ever leaving home.

I fell in love with the river during our first summer here. Everything about it was perfect. Time seemed to stand still there.

I had no idea that the river as I knew it would soon disappear.

That first summer Rick and I were trying to prune the olive grove ourselves, even though we had no clue what we were doing and had only the weekends to do it. The trees hadn’t been pruned for years, and I found myself spending long afternoons in the Wairarapa heat just cutting out the ‘suckers’ – the tender, unproductive branches that shoot up from the trunk.

At the end of those afternoons I’d wander down to the river, sweaty and hot. I’d throw off my shirt, boots, and socks and fall back into the cool, clear water.

Read the rest of this entry »


Zen and the art of olive pickling

June 27, 2009

The day after our big olive harvest with the city friends, the weather took a turn for the worse. It didn’t matter. Four of us in the harvest gang were determined to hand pick some olives for pickling and preserving. We weren’t about to be put off by the weather.

Olives and macrocarpas in the mist

Olives and macrocarpas in the mist

Everyone that morning was sore from the day before. Inside the fire was going, and outside the temperature had plummeted. The mist across the hills had thickened. But we four intrepid olive harvesters put on winter coats and gloves, left behind the others who were reading by the fire, and headed down into the grove with a couple old plastic buckets.

It doesn’t snow in the Wairarapa valley, except for occasionally up in the mountains, and the coldest days in Martinborough are nothing compared to the serious, snow-filled winters of my native Michigan. But my body seems to have changed.

Read the rest of this entry »


Picking up the oil

June 13, 2009
Washed olives going into the press

Washed olives going into the press

Rick and I drove up to the olive press and looked in through the ornate metal gate.

It was dark out, and the lights were still on inside. Diane of ‘Pressing Engagements’ was still pressing olives. She works furiously throughout May and June, then things go quiet for the olive presses of the Wairarapa valley.

We wanted to pick up our oil and get it home to taste it right away, in order to see if the frosts had damaged the taste. We’d gone to great lengths on harvest day to make sure we’d sorted out as much frost-damaged fruit as possible. But were our efforts enough?

Diane smiled when she saw us. “Your oil is beautiful,” she said immediately, and then waved us in through the gate.

Does she say that to all the boys?

Read the rest of this entry »


Olive harvest on a misty day

June 6, 2009
Mist on the hills beyond the bottom paddock

Mist on the hills beyond the bottom paddock

The first of the city friends arrived on Friday night, driving over the Rimutaka Hill Road after work in the dark, ready to settle in for a three-day weekend full of food, friends, olives, and a lot of hard work.

There were big hello hugs all around and bags deposited in guest rooms.

We operate a B&B here, so the extra bedrooms come in handy at harvest time — and also throughout the year, when friends and family occupy the rooms between paying guests.

As they arrived, everyone was talking about the horrible weather that had been forecasted for the weekend.

Read the rest of this entry »


First time I saw the trees

April 9, 2009

It was early as Rick and I climbed into the car for a day trip to Martinborough.

Across the harbor lie the Rimutakas.

Across Wellington's harbor lie the Rimutakas.

There were apples in the back seat to snack on later, and we had travel mugs full of hot coffee sitting in the cup holders between us. The morning light was pale blue as we pulled out of our driveway.

We’d been living in Wellington for two years by then. Somewhere along the course of our lives we’d accidentally become itinerant Americans, moving first from the North Side of Chicago together to northern Japan, then down to the bright lights of Tokyo, and most recently all the way to the bottom of the planet to New Zealand. In the two previous years alone, we’d lived in four different spots in Wellington.

Although this was just a day trip, there was something bigger behind our reason for the drive to Martinborough. We were going because Rick had proposed something radical.

He proposed we settle.

That day we were off to look at his Fantastic New Idea. I admit that I was skeptical.

Read the rest of this entry »